Lake Toba, Sumatra, Indonesia - Part II

It’s been two weeks now on Samosir Island, and we have thoroughly used our time to explore and dive deeply into the local culture and cuisine. The scooters quickly became our favourite mode of transport, and we rented them on most days, as they are not only perfect for getting around but also quite affordable. A scooter costs just a few Euros per day and allows us to explore the island, as well as the nearby mainland, at our own relaxed pace. A full trip around Samosir Island usually takes around 4 hours, and there is only one main road crossing the island, which winds its way through the local mountains. We made it a point to explore both the northern and southern parts, but so far haven’t completed the full circle in one single trip, as it requires quite some time on the scooter and you must always plan for the occasional rain shower that forces breaks. The rain showers here are much heavier and more sudden than the type of rain we experience back in Europe. When the heavens open their gates over here, you certainly do not want to be caught sitting on a scooter.

A few days ago, we embarked on a day-long scooter tour together with Michael, the hotel manager, along with parts of his family who are currently visiting Samosir. We were also joined by his good friend Frank and Jenny, a local friend who had already shown us around the lively market in Tomok and several other places. It turned out to be a truly special and memorable day! We took the only existing road crossing the island via the local mountains to reach Pangururan, the capital city of Samosir Island. There, we visited an impressive, massive Batak-style church known as St. Michael’s, which was apparently built between 1994 and 1997. When we arrived, it happened to be open, as it was hosting a local wedding. We were instantly welcomed to join the wedding group, as many of the locals wanted to take pictures with us. Weddings here are enormous celebrations, and the more guests you have, the higher the suggested status of the bride, groom, and the entire wedding party. Foreigners apparently add extra points to this status, so we were warmly invited to visit the church and take pictures alongside the joyful local wedding party.

We continued our ride after enjoying a delightful lunch at a lovely restaurant and then crossed over the only bridge connecting Samosir Island to the mainland. We visited a fascinating local geopark that explained the unique geological formation of the island following a massive earthquake that occurred around 70,000 years ago. This provided us with great insights into the island’s natural history and geography. The attached skywalk offered some spectacular panoramic views of Samosir Island, allowing us to fully appreciate its beauty from above. On our way back, we decided not to take the direct route but instead passed through impressive local rice fields, soaking in the stunning and peaceful countryside scenery. The last few kilometers of our journey were a bit challenging, as we rode through darkness and heavy, lashing rain, which added an unexpected adventurous element to our trip. We had left early in the morning around 8 o’clock and returned home nearly 12 hours later. Although it was a long day, it was very informative and fulfilling. After grabbing a quick bite to eat back at the hotel, we all enjoyed a well-deserved, restful night of sleep.

With the same wonderful group of people, we embarked on another truly memorable trip yesterday. Michael thoughtfully organized a boat that would take us to a stunning waterfall, a location only accessible by boat and truly a hidden gem worth visiting. Along the way, we paused to explore a local village and made a heartwarming visit to a nearby school—a spontaneous idea that one of Michael’s exceptional team members suggested! Before heading to the school, we stopped briefly at Tomok market to purchase some supplies and gifts for the kids, as we didn’t want to arrive empty handed. The gentle hike to the school was filled with fascinating insights; the local crew generously shared their knowledge about the various fruits and vegetables growing alongside the road. We saw durians, passionfruit, jackfruit, dragonfruit, local onions, and, of course, flourishing rice fields. The entire area is ecologically vibrant, and the climate here is nearly perfect for agriculture. Upon returning to the boat, the BBQ was fired up, and fresh fish, local lobsters, and vegetables were expertly prepared in traditional style. We enjoyed a fantastic lunch on board, and when we finally reached the waterfall, it was time for a refreshing swim. The approximately three-meter jump from the boat was somewhat intimidating at first—at least for me—while our daughter enthusiastically took the plunge around five times! The reward was a lovely swim in a pleasantly warm lake. The only other visitors were a local band celebrating on a boat equipped with a full sound system, playing traditional local music alongside iconic songs from Bob Marley and the Wailers, a perfect soundtrack to complement the breathtaking scenery.

What else happened during our visit? We had the opportunity to explore a local coffee roastery, where we savored some truly fantastic coffee. The island is dotted with coffee and cocoa trees, making it impossible to resist trying the local brews. Sampling the authentic flavors was definitely a highlight! In addition, we took time to visit numerous local graves scattered throughout the area. These graves range from the impressively grand to the surreal, and sometimes even verge on the comical. Families construct these graves in exposed locations right alongside the roads, with their size reflecting the status of the family and the deceased. Some graves are taller and undoubtedly more expensive than many of the local homes. Funerals, especially for elders who have lived long lives, are large-scale events attended by over a thousand visitors. Local street vendors set up to feed the hungry guests, and the atmosphere often feels more like a lively celebration or party than a traditional funeral.

Other than that we just enjoyed some time in the hotel, did regular homework sessions with the kids and let them research the next countries we are visiting. We have 6 more days on beautiful Samosir before it’s time to pack our bags again and continue our journey. We will keep you posted!

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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Lake Toba, Sumatra, Indonesia - Part I